articles & reviews

Buying Your First Drum Set (aka Show This To Your Parents)
By Greg Gaylord (Music Market October1997)

Last month, we looked at purchasing the most important drum that a "kit" player has in his or her arsenal the snare drum. This month, I would like to address the rest of the drums comprising the "kit", with a focus on the beginning drummer.

The largest frustration I have with drum kits comes in the entry level kits, and that frustration is (drum roll please) ... pricing. I realize that with the lower cost of these kits comes lower quality standards, but I don't think an encounter like the one I had last week should ever happen.

I went to the home of a beginning drummer to check out his kit. The bearing edges were very uneven and had large chips in them. There was no attempt to sand the shell or the bearing edges, and to top it off the wrap was coming off the shell! So how much did this youngster pay for his kit? Would you believe that this Taiwanese five piece kit was purchased new, less than one year ago, for $600! For that kind of money, this kid could have purchased a nice used kit, or a higher quality entry level kit such as the Pearl "Export, Tama "Rockstar", or Ludwig "Rocker." This music dealer should have done better. Okay, enough of my "venting" about pricing.

So what should the beginning student (or parents of) look for in a kit? The drums will probably be wrapped in a type of "drum plastic", usually black, red or white. Check to see if this plastic is firmly attached to the shell. A good place to check is near the bearing edge (this is where the drum head comes in contact with the shell). You should remove the drum head to check this. The plastic should not move when you run a finger along it, nor should it have any air pockets which can be compressed by your finger.

While you have the drum head off, check the bearing edge (the top most part of the shell which is usually cut at a 45 degree angle). Run your finger around the circumference of the drum. There should not be any chipping or areas where something has hit the edge, compressing it. The edge should feel level all the way around the drum.

Next, look at the inside of the drums. There should be no cracks in the shell. Although some splintering around the lug holes is common due to drill bit breakthrough, the "cracks" should not travel beyond the immediate area of the lug holes.

If you are looking at a used kit, it may have been sealed with lacquer on the inside. If this is the case, feel the finish for roughness. It should feel smooth and even, and there should not be "lumps" of lacquer around the bearing edge. Also, look at the finish. It should appear smooth and should not have the appearance of an orange peel.

You will also have to check the hardware on the drums.

Look at the hoops (the metal ring that holds down the drum head). These should be round and not bent anywhere. Remove the tension rods (screws that adjust drum head tension) from the hoop. Then rotate the hoop on the head while the head rests on the drum shell. This is a quick check to see if something is not round.

Tension rods should be straight and not stripped of their threads. You can usually notice a bent tension rod as you unscrew it during the removal of the hoop and head.

Also check mounts (the metal brackets that "hold" the drum(s) above the bass drum) to make sure they function properly and are not stripped To do this, the drums should be set up as if You were going to Play. All the nuts should fasten securely and not slip. you can also check how well they hold by trying to move them. Don't be afraid to twist and pull on the drums Use your common sense, if it seem that the mount is not gripping properly, it probably isn't. Today's mounts are built much stronger and are designed to take the hard hits that some of today's players can put out. Older kits, such as a 1960s Ludwig kit, will have smaller wing nuts which are more likely than today's hardware to slip. You will need to consider your needs when checking this portion of the hardware. If you are a "heavy hitter", you may need something more than what those early kits were designed to do.

Lugs should be securely fastened to the shell. If they are not, find out why. It may be as simple as a loose screw, or it might be as bad as a broken lug.

With used drums, there may be some pitting on the chrome parts. This happens over time and use. How much is acceptable is up to you.

Drum heads are something that need to be replaced after so much use. If you are buying a new set, the heads on the drum should be new. If, however, you are buying a used set, the drums may or may not have new heads. Expect to pay around $50 for new batter side (the top head the one that gets hit) heads for a typical five piece kit. If the bass drum head needs replacing, figure on spending another $20. You will need to consider the cost of heads when purchasing your drums.

How much should you expect to pay for an entry level kit? Drum kits with cymbal stand(s), bass drum pedal, and high hat (cymbals are usually sold separately) will start at around $250 for new Taiwanese made five piece kits. If you don't expect much, you won't be disappointed. If you want something that is built a little better, the Pearl Export and comparable kits from manufacturers will start around $450. This price is "drums only" which means that you then have to purchase the stands. Expect to add another $150 for a basic stand package.

Cymbals will need to be added, no matter which route you go, unless you are buying a complete used kit from an individual. Entry level cymbal packages will run you another $150 to $200. Here again, you have the option of buying used cymbals at a fraction of what its new cost would be.

If you are buying used cymbals, check the cymbals for cracking, chipping around the outside edges, and "keyholing" (the center hole should be round, not oval, in shape).

The bottom line is that you can expect to pay anywhere from $400 to about $1,000 for a new entry level kit with stands and cymbals. If you buy used gear, expect to pay from $200 to $800.

These prices are of course rough guidelines and are only meant to assist with your budgeting. The price of a set varies regionally.

There are many reputable drum shops throughout the Bay Area that can assist you. Don't be afraid to ask questions and to stop in at several places before making your decision! I encourage anyone looking for an entry level kit to check out used kits as well as new ones. You will probably find the used drums to be of higher quality than the Taiwanese imports, and you may not have to spend any more money for that upgrade.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions about a kit, need help in finding a kit, or just want opinions about a kit, feet free to leave me a message at (415) 898 2647.